Here is a truly historical item — a LEEDS & NORTHRUP CO. Mirror Galvanometer. It has Western Electric K.S.3011 designation.

“A mirror galvanometer is a mechanical meter that senses electric current, except that instead of moving a needle, it moves a mirror.   The mirror reflects a beam of light, which projects onto a meter, and acts as a long, weightless, massless pointer. ” ^[1]

The craftsmanship and build quality of this device is truly remarkable.  I cannot fathom how much money it would cost to build this same device today using identical components.  The unit consists of a large magnet, floating mirror, bulb, magnifier, panel scale, brass and silver switches with no measurable resistance, and a large number of precision resistors that were hand-wound and perfectly balanced using the finest balance bridge equipment available at that time. Truly the highest laboratory-grade accuracy that was possible — BEST of best.  Resistance accuracy should approach 0.1%.  For this reason, the unit makes a fabulous (true) precision resistance box for checking calibration.  This gives it a modern “use” instead of sitting on a shelf as a discussion piece.

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This article discusses repair and calibration of the B&K 600 / 606  tube testers.  Both models can share the same tube setup data book, and therefore both models are functionally equivalent.    Model 606 will be example shown in this article.  Electrical voltages are present, repairs should only be attempted by a qualified technician. Copyrighted 2010 TubeSound, all rights reserved.

Cosmetically, these models look like a little brother to their larger siblings — B&K 700 and B&K 707. Model 600 shares the same color scheme with Model 700, and model 606 shares the same color scheme as model 707. The wood case construction is similar also.

Electrically, models 600 and 606 are very similar (though not identical) to the “Switch” section (bottom panel) of the 700 / 707, employing the same grid leakage test and very similar tests for Emission Quality and Shorts.

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Sprague Tel-Ohmike TO-3

This article discusses repair and calibration of the Sprague model TO-3 Tel-Ohmike Resistor-Condenser Analyzer.    Serious electrical voltages are present, repairs should only be attempted by a qualified technician. Copyrighted by Bob Putnak, all rights reserved.

Introduction to model TO-3

Model TO-3 Tel-Ohmike “Capacitor Tester” is based on the older Sprague design.  It is a balanced-bridge design with the following specifications:

• Capacitance testing from 10 pf to 2000 uf, spread across 4 ranges
• Resistance testing from 2.5 ohms to 25 meg, spread across 3 ranges
• Capacitor Insulation Resistance test
• Capacitor leakage test using a true load from 0 to approx 660 V (factory design). Note that a good argument can be made to drop the overall polarizing voltage down to 500 vdc (as discussed below).
• Meter reads in DC Volts (up to 750), DC milliamps (up to 75 ma), or Megohms (up to 2.5 gigohms).

Repair and Calibration of Model TO-3

The original schematic for TO-3 has several mistakes and ambiguities.  Therefore, I have revised the schematic, corrected errors that I have found, and added notes to make the schematic more user-friendly.  The schematic can be downloaded as a PDF [to3 schematic].  To elaborate: I corrected significant drawing mistakes at switch 2F, added labels to define the functionality of range-standard resistors, added the trimmer pots to the bridge pot, added clarification to the installed values of several resistors, added a ‘Notes’ section for better overall understanding, and digitally cleaned-up the schematic with photoshop for excellent readability.

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This article discusses repair and my calibration procedure of the Precision model 10-12  tube tester.   Serious electrical voltages are present, repairs should only be attempted by a qualified technician. Copyrighted by Bob Putnak, all rights reserved.

Introduction

6 Paco 10-series tube testers from my collection

The Precision Apparatus Company (commonly known as PACO) manufactured some very high quality test equipment.  Among their offerings are the “10-series” of tube testers, such as model 10-12, 10-15, 10-40, 10-54.  The tube test method is the same in all, and the test data is interchangeable.

I have been collecting since 1990, and in my experience model 10-12 was the most popular unit.  I have found many 10-12 over the past 19 years, and serviced many more.    I have only found one different model for my own collection, a model 10-40 that you see in the photo.

Precision Apparatus 10-12 tube tester

It is easy to see why model 10-12 was most popular.  Four adjectives come to mind: Attractive, durable, consistent, quality.  Attractive — it has a beautiful furniture-grade hardwood case.  Durable — the entire unit is built-like-a-tank.  Consistent — I have always found these units to produce repeatable test results, year-after-year.  Quality — consistent test results from the “Electronamic” test method add up to a quality piece of test equipment.



Paco A-15 socket adapter

Paco G-140 Socket Adapter

The 10-series is also popular today because it will test a very large variety of tubes.  Model 10-12 has built-in sockets for antique tubes 4-pin, 5-pin, 6-pin, 7-pin large, and acorn.  It also has sockets for octal, loctal, 7-pin miniature, and 9-pin miniature.  Socket adapters (models A-15 and G-140) were later available, which adds the ability to test 10-pin miniature, nuvistor (5 & 7 pin), novar, and compactron tubes.  Therefore, if you have the socket adapter panel, you can effectively cover the entire range of tubes from antique 4-pin through modern 12-pin compactron.

The tester also has a NOISE JACK for connecting a set of headphones to audibly evaluate “tube noise.”

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This article discusses repair and calibration of the Signal Corp I-177  tube tester.   Serious electrical voltages are present, repairs should only be attempted by a qualified technician. Copyrighted by Bob Putnak, all rights reserved.

Introduction

Signal Corp I-177 tube tester

Model I-177 is a very old US Military dynamic mutual conductance tube tester that was used during World War II years.  The War Department Technical Manual is dated August 1944, and the tester calibrated in this article is dated April 1945. The unit is extremely well-built.  Due to its age and high signal voltage, the tester is only suited to test the “antique tubes” and military tubes of its era, and does not even have a 9-pin miniature socket. Although a socket adapter panel does exist to accommodate testing “newer” tubes, the tester is not suited for that task and can easily damage small signal tubes.  That said, the I-177 does an excellent job of testing the tubes of its era.


Repair

The fundamentals for starting the I-177 project: all knobs and the meter itself are indexed at zero, check all resistors and potentiometers for accuracy and replace where necessary , replace the 0.1 mfd capacitor, clean all sockets/switches/leaf-switches/pots/rheostat with Deoxit to the extent possible. I would specifically note that the I-177 has 7 carbon resistors.  Expect that most (if not all) of these carbon resistors will have increased in resistance and will need replaced.  The remaining resistors are either wirewound or precision types, and while they should be tested, it is unlikely that any would be defective.  Inspect all wiring (AC power cord, and also each wire connection at every tube socket pin).  Remove both bulbs (#81 fuse bulb and neon shorts lamp), clean bulb connections and sockets, reinstall.  The #81 fuse bulb must be only a #81 bulb (no substitutes).

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BK 607 tube tester

B&K 607 case

This article discusses the solid-state B&K 607 / 667  tube testers.  Both models use the same tube setup data book, and therefore both models are functionally equivalent.    Model 607 will be example shown in this article.  Electrical voltages are present, repairs should only be attempted by a qualified technician. Copyrighted, all rights reserved.

This series was B&K’s clone of the Sencore Mighty Mite TC162.  While the circuits are not 100% identical, they are close enough to be considered functionally identical.  The B&K 607 weighs slightly less than 6-lbs (without setup book or manual), and size dimensions are: 34 cm L x 24.5 cm W x 11 cm D.  The case folds open and easily accommodates a full size 8.5 x 11 inch setup chart and service manual as shown in the photo above.

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HP Officejet R-series

As a fan of vintage tube equipment, it should come as no surprise that I prefer older quality computer equipment.  In this article, I explain how to repair “Scanner System Failure” problems in a vintage HP Officejet R-series multifunction scanner-printer.  Model R40xi is shown in the photos, but all models (R40, R40xi, R60, R60xi, R80, R80xi) repair the same.  In fact, many similar HP multifunction units of this era are repaired in similar manner.

First, let me explain why I feel that these vintage HP units are worth repairing.  Why fix an “old parallel-port printer” when new models are so cheap?  Like most things in life, you really do get what you pay for, and if HP paid me to take their new models (with the assumption that I actually had to use them), I would not be interested.

During the Lew Platt years, HP was making top quality products.  This period of quality was from the early 1990s (Laserjet 4-series and beyond) through the Officejet R-series of 1999.   The hardware during this time was built-like-a-tank, and when compared to today, the ink supplies were reasonable (although they certainly seemed expensive at the time).

Let us look at the economics: Officejet R-series uses a #45 cartridge, holds 42-mL ink, retail cost $30.  This HP45 can be purchased for $5 on eBay. Modern HP cartridges hold as little as 5-mL ink and cost $15 — which is 4.2 times more expensive using retail price comparisons.  If you consider surplus #45 cartridge prices as your comparison, the cost to operate a new HP printer can be  42-times more expensive.  And if you are an environmentalist (or anyone who hates frivolous waste), ask yourself whether it is environmentally responsible for HP to manufacture an ink cartridge that only holds 5-mL or 10-mL? Certainly not, and those puny cartridges are only sold to pretend that the new cartridge price is cheap, when in fact it holds 4-to-8 times less ink.   That is an insult to your intelligence and an affront to the environment.

In another example, a modern HP toner cartridge (for a current model) costs $99 retail with approx 2,000 page yield.  Surplus HP toner cartridges for the old 4-series, 5-series, or 6-series can be purchased for approx $20-$30 on eBay, and have 3,000+ page yields.  Vintage Laserjets have been known to be run strong with 500,000 page cycles.  Any chance you will get even 50,000 page cycles with a modern unit? Good luck with that.  And how many Nag messages from the new drivers to “buy more ink” would you click on during that time?  Well — no nag messages with old HP units!

So when you analyze the situation, the answer is obvious why I fix these old HP units.  (1) High build quality of the hardware, (2) low cost of use (ie – cheap ink), (3) OS drivers that respect you as a person, without bloat or nag screens to harass extra ink purchases, (4) ink that does not “expire” because some Corporate Executive wanted to sell more ink to pay for his/her 7-or-8 figure CEO salary + stock options + benefits + perks + Golden Parachute retirement package.

Let us compare the “new” models.  By ‘new’ models, I consider any model released in the Carly Fiorina era and beyond to be ‘new’.  The only benefits that I can see in the new models are USB connection (which is easier for most users but otherwise adds no functionality) and much better color printing.  Since I have no problem with parallel ports and only print black-and-white, those issues are not important to me. Otherwise, it is my opinion that the quality of the new hardware is much lower than the older models, the cost of consumables (ink/toner) is outrageously expensive, the computer drivers are bloated and filled with nag messages that harass you to “buy more ink”, and some models “expire” the ink cartridges based upon a random date.   If you feel respected as a customer with that experience, more power to you.   Personally, I am not interested in participating.

With that explanation, let us move on to the repair.  As always, repairs are only suited for experienced electronic technicians with suitable training.  Also, it is useful to take a video of your repair project so that you can reexamine your work if you get stuck during reassembly.

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©2009, All rights reserved.

The article will discuss a cheap and easy way to test panel meters. The meter in your tube tester is an example of a panel meter. Occasionally you see flaky meter operation and suspect that the panel meter may be defective.  Most techs know that it may not be safe to test a panel meter by placing an ohmmeter across its terminals — this attempt can ruin the panel meter (depending on the ohmmeter used) and will not reveal all of the panel meter specs anyway.

Most panel meters in vintage equipment (such as tube testers or capacitor testers) will be milliammeters or microammeters.  The good news is that these panel meters can be tested, although extreme caution must be exercised.  One mistake and you can easily ruin the meter, so “do not try this at home” until you have practiced with a large variety of junk meters and have sufficient experience and confidence in your skills. Even then, “triple check” everything before you proceed.

Simpson 2600 Calibrator

Many people think that you need to have expensive equipment to test panel meters.  It would be nice to own a Simpson 2600 Laboratory-grade Calibrator (which cost $1,620 in 1965 and weighs 132-lbs).  But you can make do with the following basic equipment: a variable power supply, a quality resistor decade box, a quality multimeter with mA and µA capability, and another quality digital multimeter that will accurately test millivolts.  Likewise, you need an understanding of what you are trying to accomplish.   Keep in mind that Ohm’s Law teaches that voltage, resistance, and current are all interrelated, therefore a panel meter that has its faceplate scale in “volts” CAN be tested as an ammeter.

In the following discussion, I will demonstrate testing a panel meter.  You will (1) determine the full-scale spec of the meter (using the printed scale as your reference for full scale), (2) evaluate whether the meter action is smooth and accurate across its entire range, and (3) determine the internal resistance of the meter.

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A common (and totally random) problem with GM vehicles that have the Passlock / Passlock II anti-theft system is that the vehicle will suddenly refuse to start.  The problem is a poorly designed GM Passlock anti-theft system that erroneously enters anti-theft mode and disables the fuel injectors. GM should be forced to recall this Passlock system — it is simply unacceptable to strand motorists because of an incompetent anti-theft system.

The vehicle in this example is a 2002 Chevy Malibu, but this Passlock system was employed in many GM models.  Thousands of motorists have been stranded and left helpless by these GM vehicles that refuse to start for no apparent reason.  The owner of this Malibu was stranded three times over the past two years, incurred 2 towing bills to a Chevy dealership, two “repair” bills from the incompetent Chevy dealer who obviously failed to solve the problem.  Now she was stranded for a 3rd time.  This time she called me.

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This article will discuss Mercury tube testers. The Mercury Electronics Corporation of Mineola NY produced a number of tube testers in the 1960s.  All models are small, portable, and lightweight.  Popular models include 990, 1000, 1100, 1100A, 1100C, 1101.  Models and comments will be added as I find time.   Electrical voltages are present; repairs should only be attempted by a qualified technician.

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