I am frequently asked by B&K and Hickok owners to explain how to replace a #83 tube with a solid state version. This question is popular because #83 tubes are scare and expensive. Other benefits are increased reliability (no tube to wear down), less heat generated inside the tester case, and less load on the power transformer. So, if you want to Do-It-Yourself, I will explain how these replacements are made.

I will preface this tutorial with a few caveats: First, this procedure is easier to implement with B&K testers than Hickok testers. Hickok factored in the load that the real #83 tube has on the power transformer, and sometimes you cannot properly set the line without circuit modification. Keep this in mind if you plan to try it with your Hickok — you may be getting in over your head. Hence, substitution may be more effort than it is worth, especially when some Hickok buyers do not want the modification and would have to undo the circuit mods that were made. This leads to the second caveat: not everyone feels that the solid-state substitution works ‘excellent’ in Hickok’s. In fact, some “purists” will not even use a Hickok with a solid-state #83 replacement. They cite the fact that silicon diodes have less voltage drop than a tube rectifier, and feel that the tube test results will not be “pure.”

Personally, I always use a solid-state replacement for B&K testers. For most Hickok, I prefer to use a real #83 tube only because circuit modifications are sometimes necessary, which makes going back to a real #83 difficult for the tube tester owner or future buyer.  This problem is particularly true for the “red-case” Hickok’s.

That said, I have no disapproval with using a solid-state #83 in a Hickok model that lends itself to working well, and have found that any tube “test score” differences are trivial. In my opinion, the people who argue about small test score variations are really over-thinking the purpose of testing a tube — the end-result is NOT a test score, but to ascertain whether the tube will work satisfactory in your circuit. Common sense and practicality are important.

Here it goes…

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This article will discuss repair and calibration of the NRI Professional model 70 tube tester. High voltages are present, repairs should only be attempted by a qualified technician. Copyrighted, all rights reserved.

NRI 70 beautiful hardwood case

Introduction

Built by Precision Apparatus Co for NRI, the high-quality craftsmanship of the NRI Professional model 70 tube tester is readily apparent. It has a beautiful hardwood case (appears to be oak or birch) with finger-joint construction. Eight rubber feet protect your desktop in both the working position and the standup position. Internally, the tester uses a large beefy transformer and quality Pace (Precision Apparatus) meter movement. The tester has very small size, measuring only 10.75 x 10.75 x 6.25 inches (27cm x 27cm x 16cm) and weighs a hefty 10.4 lbs (4.7 kg). Most of the weight is due to the large transformer and hardwood case.

The NRI 70 has eight built-in sockets consisting of 4-pin, 5-pin, 6-pin, 7-pin large, 7-pin miniature, octal, loctal, and 9-pin miniature. All sockets use standard wiring (1-to-1, 2-to-2, etc.), and the control lever numbers correspond to their RTMA pin numbers (Lever 1 controls socket pin 1, Lever 2 control socket pin 2, etc.) (more…)

Discolored getter flashing (brown or black marks) does not mean that a tube was used. This fiction is believed by both uninformed buyers and seasoned tube jockeys. This myth seems credible because some new tubes have perfect shiny mirror getter flashing; therefore the assumption is that brown or black stains in the getter flashing must indicate a used tube. The myth says that the more brown/black discoloration, the “more used” the tube is. Wrong.

Excerpt from Electronics Magazine

The purpose of the tube getter and flashing is to remove gas inside the tube envelope during manufacture. This discoloration myth can be quickly debunked by reading the article in Electronics magazine, October 1950, entitled “Getter Materials For Electron Tubes”. The article explains that if the getter is vaporized very slowly during the manufacturing process, “the first barium atoms evaporated will absorb the gas present so that the remaining getter is deposited in a very high vacuum, exhibiting a shiny mirror.” If the getter was flashed very rapidly during manufacturing, then “the getter mirror will be discolored due to the dispersion of the barium.” The article then explains that the discoloration “does not mean that the getter is contaminated, but merely that the deposit is finely divided and therefore absorbs light.”

Several photos of NOS tubes below demonstrate this myth.  Likewise, I provide photos to demonstrate how the flashing looks when a tube is actually used. Let us proceed…

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This article discusses repair and calibration of the older tube-based Sencore Mighty Mite tube testers that use the 12AU7A tube inside, such as model TC130, TC136, and TC142. I will also discuss the most common problem that causes “faulty” Grid Leakage detection. High voltages are present, repairs should only be attempted by a qualified technician. Copyrighted, all rights reserved.

TC130 Mighty Mite

TC130 Mighty Mite case

Introduction

Sencore Mighty Mite testers employ a Cathode Emission test circuit, with short detection and industry-best 100-Megohm leakage detection. The leakage detection circuitry is really the reason that every technician should own a Mighty Mite as part of his/her tube testing arsenal.

All Mighty Mites are designed to test newer tubes. You will not find any antique sockets (such as 4-pin, 5-pin, 6-pin, 8-pin large, etc.) Socket configuration consists of Octal, 7-pin miniature, 9-pin miniature, Nuvistor, novar, Loctal, and Compactron.

Each model has a roman numeral designation: TC130 = Mighty Mite III. TC136 = Mighty Mite IV. TC142 = Mighty Mite V. There are no practical differences among them.

The older Sencore Mighty Mite tube testers have tube circuitry inside, whereas newer Mighty Mites (such as TC154 and TC162) are transistorized. Otherwise, their functionality is comparable. Some units have a CRT picture tube wire harness with socket attached. This harness is very bulky, so common sense would suggest to remove it. It serves no practical purpose and only clutters up the case. Some models have a few pin straighteners on the front panel.

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Early this year I found this vintage Colin B. Kennedy Corp radio. Model 62LS lowboy console with model 54A shortwave unit. I recently finished rebuilding this radio. It is available for purchase (local pickup preferred, but crating and shipping can be arranged but will be quite expensive). It would make a beautiful addition to any old home or turn-of-the-century mansion. This beautiful antique radio is more than a radio — it is a beautiful piece of furniture as well. Colin B. Kennedy Corp marketed themselves as the “The Royalty of Radio”, and the high quality craftsmanship is readily apparent.

Colin B. Kennedy Corp model 62LS lowboy console radio with model 54A shortwave unit.

This is actually the second Kennedy console radio in my collection.

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This article will discuss repair and calibration of the Jackson 561 tube tester. High voltages are present, repairs should only be attempted by a qualified technician. Copyrighted, all rights reserved.

Introduction

The Jackson 561 appears to be a rare (uncommon) model. Very little documentation exists, and I have seen only a small number of them for sale.

The model 561 is a combination of the Jackson 634 and the 648. Photo below shows Jackson 561 (right); Jackson 648A (left).

Comparison: Jackson 648A vs 561

If the 634 and 648 mated, the 561 would be its offspring. It shares the following characteristics from the 648: (a) the same meter, (b) variable leakage control, (c) color scheme, and (d) case design. From the 634, it shares (a) the same test method (which Jackson calls “Dynamic Output”), (b) Shorts Test control, (c) lack of a Noise test, and (d) function control layout. In fact, the 634 tube setup chart can be used (with slight modification) with the 561, as explained later.

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If you appreciate vintage tube test gear, you will enjoy this 1940 vintage Jackson 634 Tube Tester. It is an excellent choice for anyone looking for a quality, well-built, tester that can test the VERY OLD tubes, such as #50, 01A, 1V, #10, 2A3, #15, #19, HY113, HY115, HY125, #26, #45, 71-A, #83, etc.

This article is also relevant to Jackson 637 tester, which is same as model 634 tester with additional integrated multimeter functionality (volts and ohms testing).

(Jackson 634 testing Cunningham CX-350 Globe #50 Triode tube)

What is really “cool” about this tester is its very small size. Measuring only 8.5 x 8.5 x 6 inches and weighing 9 lbs, this unit packs a big punch in a small size!

This tester has been in my personal collection since 1990, and it is the oldest tester in my collection (except for a Supreme 550 Radio Tester from 1936, which also has some basic tube testing capability).

Jackson 634 - 637 modernization bulletin. Click to enlarge.

This tester is so old that it did NOT come with a 9-pin-miniature socket installed — that was too modern!

(Article UPDATE, Nov 3, 2008): I found an original Jackson modernization bulletin, and the Jackson 634 and 637 testers were released in 1939. All 1939 models were sold without the 9-pin-miniature socket installed. The 1940 models were already modernized at the factory.

I have installed a new 9-pin-miniature socket, and will teach you how to “modernize” your 1939 vintage Jackson 634 also. (Jackson sockets are wired unique, and do not correspond to the 1-to-1, 2-to-2, wiring that many testers employ).

Service information and many additional photos are as follows…

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This article will discuss my method of professionally installing a socket saver into the socket panel of a Hickok 6000 / 6000A / 6005 tube tester, and is designed so that (1) you cannot even see that a socket saver is installed, (2) the case lid will close normally, and (3) the socket saver is easily replaceable when it wears out.

The Hickok 6000-series of tube testers use a plug-in socket panel instead of individual sockets affixed to the chassis. The socket panel protrudes upward, and there is no extra room between the socket panel and the case lid. Therefore, traditional installation of a socket saver (plugging it into an existing socket) is unacceptable for these testers because the case lid will not close.

Fortunately, if you are willing put forth effort, you can have your cake and eat it too! This project will demonstrate a 9-pin miniature socket saver installation, but the process can be adapted for other sockets.

When you are finished, here is what you will accomplish:

Photo above shows Hickok 6000 after my method of professionally installing the socket saver. It is impossible to see that a socket saver is even installed!

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©2008, Bob Putnak.  All rights reserved.  This article discusses the B&K 707 Dyna-Jet Dynamic Mutual Conductance tube tester, including repair and calibration. The discussion is also relevant to the B&K 700 (the 700 is almost identical except for socket configuration) and some of the information is applicable to the B&K 650.

BK 700

my BK 707 with custom TubeSound plate current meter upgrade

The B&K 707 tube tester dates from the late 1960s into the 1970s. My manual is stamped August 1969, and a modern tube data setup chart dates 1978.

First of all, a brief explanation of the circuitry of this tester is necessary. Is this a Mutual Conductance tube tester? Well, yes and no.

Tubes that test in the “Jet-Check” section test for mutual conductance, with the exception of diodes/rectifiers (which always test only for Emission). The Jet-Check section is the upper panel (sockets 1 – 35). Tubes that test in the “Switch” section — the bottom panel (sockets 36 – 45), are tested for Emission.

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Here is a rare tube — a Marathon MX-280 Globe #80 rectifier tube featuring MESH PLATES construction!  Not only that, but each section tests very strong Emission, comparable to an NOS #80!

In 18 years of collecting, I do not remember ever seeing another Mesh Plates #80 tube.  Look at that Glow!  You can see right through the Mesh Plates into the filament!  This would be a beautiful tube for any serious collector.  You could really impress your friends with this one.

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